In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto by Michael Pollan
Every moment reading this book was spent wavering between abject guilt and self-righteous fervor. Neither one of those is a particularly healthy emotion, but the moments between those two extremes, feeling more or less content and moved, made this, in sum, a satisfying read.
Pollan subtitles the book An Eater’s Manifesto and it reads very much like one. If you’ve read any of his previous books, in particular The Omnivore’s Dilemma you might be expecting a work of hard-hitting food science journalism. In Defense of Food is not that. It reads like a call to action, a subversive demand for non-violent anti-nutritionist, anti-industry revolution (fought with forks and wallets). This revolution’s battle cry: “Eat food, mostly plants, not too much.” The book is essentially a 200-page, persuasive unpacking of that slogan.
This is a sermon intended, I think, to preach to the choir. People who care about and are interested in food, culture, health, the environment, and all that jazz are going to be given a platform to stand on and yell from. Also, possibly, if they’ve strayed a bit in to those dreaded middle isles of the supermarket, the ones that contain all of the packaged, processed edible food-like products, this book might put them back on the path toward farmer’s market and CSA righteousness. People who eat fast food and things prepared in a microwaveable box, will likely dismiss this book as radical flim-flam, or even anti-scientific.
I’m mostly in the former camp myself, so viva la revolucion!
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